My oldest son recently bought a gaming desk computer and wanted a desk. Although he was using the computer at his desk in our den, it was too small. He had only one request. He only wanted it to be sufficiently long to allow him to use his mouse more. BuildSomething is my partner to help you build this gaming computer desk. You can find the complete tutorial here, and the printable plans at BuildSomething.

What is a Gaming Desk Computer Table?

Gaming computer desks are essentially a simple desk. I noticed one difference: the tower of the computer usually sits on top. Many gaming desk PCs come with fancy lights and everyone wants to be proud of them. To accommodate the gaming mousepad and the tower that sits on top, I decided to make the desk longer. It has a shuichi saihara shelf that can be used as a monitor stand and a slide-under for my son’s keyboard and mouse pad when he needs to use the desk for homework.

How do you Build a Gaming Desk Computer?

This is the complete step-by-step guide to building this desk. However, the BuildSomething website has the printable plans, materials list, and cut list. Let’s get started!

Before we start, I should mention that I bought rough-cut knotty ash for this project. I then milled it to the proper dimensional lumber size. If you don’t have the tools to mill your lumber, you can use dimensional pine.

Create the Desktop

To construct the desktop, I cut down all my pieces conforma to just over 60 inches. I then glued and clamped the pieces together. Pocket joinery can be used with glue as well, but this is not necessary if you have clean edges.

After letting the glue dry overnight, I used my Kreg Adaptive Cutting System (Kreg Adaptive Cutting System) to trim the desktop to the right dimensions.

I filled the wood’s knots with epoxy and tinted it with black acrylic paint. These knots give the desktop a smooth surface that my son can use without worrying about his pencil getting through it if he’s writing on a knot.

After the epoxy had cured, I started to sand the desktop. I used 80 grit sandpaper to start, then moved to my orbital and worked my way up to 220 to smooth it out.